Behind the curtain

Who has always thought, like me, that the fairy tale of the Chocolate Factory was merely a cinematic reproduction of the Christmas ecstasy, well... they're about to change their mind!

...Chances are that there might be a Willy Wonka in most of us... 

One day, I was visiting my dear mother. The intention was to enjoy a cup of tea in the peace of a solitary house in her company, free from the noise of children. In reality, I did it alone, since her cup was already cold and placed aside (and who knows for how long...) on a corner of the table, while she was busy sewing the edges of a tie. This has become part of the daily routine in that house for a while now! But what I didn't understand was why, for about an hour, her and my brother were racking their brains trying to figure out how to fix a likely sartorial imperfection on a tie that to me seemed perfect. 

Suddenly, I felt as if I had been   transported into scenes from that film I watched for many years, perhaps with a bit of superficiality (the story ending well with a moral about the true value of wealth). Well... my mother is not as short as a "Oompa Loompa," and my brother doesn't have Wonka's glasses... or at least not that eccentric! However, what became clear to me was the shared passion, the research, and the attention to detail involved in achieving the final product. 

Willy traveled a lot and tried many recipes to taste and reproduce the true essence of chocolate faithfully. There were many chocolate bars, but the Wonka chocolate was the best (and I wonder if it truly was, or if it was Wonka’s mystification that made it so!). In the end, it was just chocolate, a common, well-known sweet treat, just like neckties, an item of clothing with origins now distant.

It's certain that neckties have been considered a must-have item (at this point, calling it “accessory” seems very undermining …), and that while it was once a prerogative for men, now it brings everyone together and easily overcomes any gender barrier. It can be considered that final touch that completes the outfit for those who are meticulously attentive to details but also capable of satisfying even the most coy desire of each individual. However, to this definition that I took  from a style magazine and I allowed myself to make my own, the element that distinguishes one tie from another must be added: the dedication to the craft of creation and finishing.

I thought, therefore, that this dedication and research deserve to be shared with those who, at the moment of delivery, unbox the beautiful, well-made item, and as the stern Miranda Priestly (from The Devil Wears Prada) would say, they have no idea of how behind that piece of triangular fabric there are people who study, research, know.
Because, ultimately, fashion is like snow. It takes shape from what it covers. And while style creates the garment, not just who wears it, it’s also true that the desire to make a piece or accessory versatile should not distort it.
So, starting to dig into the knowledge about style from ANGELO and the sartorial capabilities of my mother, I understood that a tie must be worn... in a certain way. And this requires respecting some criteria that, although basic, I wanted to share almost as a guide that readers interested in can draw from.

...The fundamental aspect of wearing a tie is certainly the knot...

If made with care and method, it can highlight the features of the tie itself and add a touch of refinement or, on the contrary, sloppiness to the look. I cite, for this purpose, the two most well-known and versatile knots: the Windsor knot, large, triangular and symmetrical, and the four-in-hand knot, less rigid in shape and suitable for all types of personality and fabric.
One might ask, then: which is the “appropriate” knot? The suitability depends on various factors:

• Facial features: the knot should complete and almost harmonize with the face, avoiding discordance with its lines. For example, a four-in-hand knot suits an oval face, just like a Windsor knot is preferred for a wider face.
• Shirt collar type: if we wear a large spread collar, a Windsor knot is most recommended, just as a four-in-hand knot better suits a narrower spread. However, there's nothing preventing pairing that knot with a wider spread, with the conscious intention of creating a totally personal, almost “sprezzatura” outfit.
• Style of clothing: for a “casual” style, we might opt for the four-in-hand knot, limiting its symmetry and pairing it with a shirt with a more closed off spread; for a more formal occasion, the choice can fall on the Windsor or a four-in-hand, as long as the latter is performed in a way that makes it visibly more symmetrical.

At this point, it is fair to ask whether the fabric of the tie can influence the shape of the knot. And this is where the meticulous work of Diroma1980 comes into play. Having found that what characterizes a tie is its interlining, in terms of weight, consistency, knotting, and its ability to return to shape after being untied we can confidently say that the fabric plays only a marginal role in the choice of knot. Or at the very least, its impact is minimal.

What plays a big part on the performance of the knot is indeed the inner part of the necktie. Two interlinings: one in wool and one in cotton, with the former providing consistency and sturdiness, on the other hand, elasticity is acquired from the latter, this is what defines an original Diroma1980 necktie.

The implementation of this dual-layer aims to achieve the right weight ratio between the fabric type and the interlining, ensuring consistent and robust performances. For Jacquard fabrics, at time, one layer is enough to guarantee the same levels of quality, since the fabric itself already carries a substantial weight.

So… no matter which fabric is chosen, the tie will always maintain its unique characteristics, without limitations.

That said, let us remember: it is still a textile product and must not be mistreated… especially when, caught up in the moment, we untie it like a rope. 

Elegance should be preserved from the moment it is worn…and beyond!

Finally, for the most attentive readers, a mention must be made about the shirt band height. A lower band will call for a more “petite” knot such as a four in hand. Vintage Diroma1980 ties from the Regina collection better suits the creation of a  smaller knot.

I end my stroll along one of the many paths, surely there will be others through our little home factory. We may not have sailed rivers of chocolate, but I’m certain I’ve given readers a taste of the sweet wonders of Italian craftsmanship by Diroma1980.

Mina